The finale of the 1996 movie The Birdcage has the late Gene Hackman in full drag dancing out of a gay club and past the paparazzi, who are hounding him. The club in the film is a haven for the LGBTQ community; a safe place to, well, let your freak flag fly, so to speak. It is from this fictional forerunner that Atlantic City’s new namesake (though spelled differently) takes its cue—and its verve. As in the cinematic version, the environment is welcoming to all, upbeat, inclusive, and you may see a diva or two.  Byrdcage, which opened in January, is located outside of the casino area, in the Stockton University district—the glowing, rainbow-colored windows ensure you won’t miss it. Inside, there are a roomy bar, tin ceilings and brick walls, plus a playful aviary theme with decorative birds, cages and wallpaper; seating is at booths and tables in the rear. Upstairs are another bar and dance floor. All the TVs are, appropriately, playing The Birdcage on a loop. The restaurant was conceived by partners and industry vets Richard Helfant, who oversees national landmark Lucy the Elephant in Margate; Jason Tell, an event planner and restaurant manager; and Giulietta Consalvo, an Atlantic City native who has served as general manager and director of operations for properties in New York and Atlantic City. “The three of us knew we wanted to do something together,” Consalvo explains. “The concept was always there.” The good vibes extend to the elevated comfort food that is fresh, creative and largely gluten free. Every dish is cleverly dubbed with a cheeky, smile-inducing name. “We sat around and laughed ourselves silly coming up with the names—which have already become iconic,” Consalvo says. “People can’t wait to order.” It’s true; we couldn’t wait, either. My table bantered about what to order just for the fun of calling out the frisky names. “How about the Bang-Cock chicken?” (spicy popcorn chicken with a Thai twist). “I want the Bottoms Up!” (grilled artichoke hearts with a lemon-garlic aioli). And who could resist the Toss My Salad (baby spinach, sunflower seeds, golden raisins, goat cheese, crumbled bacon with Vidalia onion dressing)? We settled on the Twinkling Tomatoes starter: bruschetta with chopped heirloom tomatoes on toasted baguette points smeared generously with whipped goat cheese, topped with basil, and finished with a crisscross of balsamic glaze. We followed up with Lady Fingers, a pile of house-cut potatoes—purple, sweet and white—served with three house-made dipping sauces, such as brandy cream, chili-infused honey and citrus beurre blanc. Don’t call these fries; they transcend the fry, greaseless and crispy. Cocktails, too, have merrymaking names. The beverage options include around two dozen signature and draft drinks, and more than a dozen wines by the glass. For mains, try the Out & Proud, a marinated chicken cutlet with a crispy cornflake—yes, cereal—coating, which is baked for a tender, juicy result with a satisfying crunch. Casual dining requires a good burger, and the Big Daddy Smash does not disappoint. I worried this double stack of prime beef patties was overdressed, with slices of bacon, tomato, lettuce, caramelized onions and dripping cheddar on a shiny brioche bun, but it turned out to be the belle of the ball. Weekend brunch offerings include house-made hash, crab Benedict and rainbow acai bowls. For Sunday dining, a Sinatra-themed menu takes center stage, with dishes that tip their hats to Ol’ Blue Eyes. “We just opened, and we’ve received so much support,” says Consalvo. With a piano on the main floor, drag shows, karaoke and theme nights upstairs, Byrdcage’s doors are open, and they are flying. HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.

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